A culture of hospitality
Iraq is one of the cradles of civilization, home to ancient Mesopotamia, Baghdad's storied markets and the holy cities of Najaf and Karbala. Iraqis are famously warm: expect to be offered tea (chai) almost everywhere, and refusing the first cup outright can seem cold. Accept at least one small glass.
Greetings
- The common greeting is As-salamu alaykum (peace be upon you), answered with wa alaykum as-salam.
- Men shake hands warmly, often holding the handshake. Place your right hand over your heart as a sign of respect.
- With women, wait to see if a hand is offered. Many conservative women prefer not to shake hands with men; a nod and a hand on the heart is polite.
- Use titles and ask about family and health before getting to business.
Dos and don'ts
- Do use your right hand for eating, greeting and passing items; the left is considered unclean.
- Do remove your shoes when entering a home if your host does.
- Don't show the sole of your foot or point it at someone.
- Don't photograph people, checkpoints or government buildings without permission.
- Don't discuss sectarian politics casually; it is sensitive.
Dress and religion
Iraq is largely Muslim and modest dress is expected. Men should avoid shorts in towns; women should cover shoulders and knees and carry a scarf for mosques and shrines. In Najaf and Karbala, women usually wear an abaya, often provided at shrine entrances. During Ramadan, avoid eating, drinking or smoking in public during daylight.
Hospitality and meals
Meals are generous and shared. Try masgouf (grilled river fish), dolma, kebab and mountains of rice. Compliment the food and accept seconds when you can. Hosts may insist you eat more; a gentle refusal after a second helping is fine. If invited to a home, bring sweets or fruit.
Tipping norms
- Tipping (bakhsheesh) is appreciated but not rigidly fixed.
- Restaurants: round up or leave about 10% if no service charge is added.
- Hotel porters and housekeeping: 1,000-2,000 Iraqi dinars is courteous.
- Taxis: round up the fare; agree the price before you set off.
- Cash in dinars is king; cards are rarely accepted outside big hotels.
A few cultural cues
Friday is the holy day, so many businesses close. Punctuality is relaxed socially but valued in business. Public displays of affection are frowned upon. Show respect at religious sites by lowering your voice and following the crowd's lead.
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