Hospitality is the heart of Jordan
Jordanians are famously generous, and the Bedouin tradition of welcoming strangers runs deep. If you visit a home, expect to be offered tea, qahwa (cardamom coffee) or food almost immediately. Refusing outright can feel rude, so accept at least a little. The phrase you will hear constantly is ahlan wa sahlan (welcome).
Greetings and social etiquette
- The standard greeting is as-salaamu alaykum (peace be upon you); reply wa alaykum as-salaam.
- Shake hands with the right hand. Men should wait to see if a woman extends her hand first; some women prefer a hand over the heart instead.
- Friends of the same gender often greet with cheek kisses, usually starting on the right.
- Use the right hand for eating, giving and receiving; the left is considered unclean.
The coffee ritual
Serving small cups of bitter qahwa sada is a gesture of honor, especially among Bedouin hosts in Wadi Rum or Petra. Hold the cup in your right hand. When you have had enough, gently shake the cup side to side as you return it, or the host will keep refilling it.
Dress and behavior
- Jordan is relaxed compared with the Gulf, but modest dress is appreciated. Cover shoulders and knees, especially at religious sites and in conservative towns.
- Women should carry a scarf to cover the head when entering mosques such as the King Abdullah I Mosque in Amman.
- Public displays of affection are best avoided.
- During Ramadan, do not eat, drink or smoke in public during daylight hours.
Dos and don'ts
- Do ask before photographing people, particularly women and Bedouin elders.
- Do remove your shoes when entering a home or mosque.
- Don't point the sole of your foot at someone or step over food.
- Don't discuss the regional politics of Israel or refugees unless your host raises it.
- Do accept invitations warmly; a shared meal of mansaf (lamb with jameed yogurt over rice) is a high honor, traditionally eaten with the right hand.
Tipping norms
Tipping, known locally as baksheesh, is customary and appreciated.
- Restaurants: a service charge is sometimes added; otherwise leave around 10 percent.
- Taxis: round up the fare to the nearest dinar.
- Hotel porters and housekeeping: 1 JOD is generous.
- Petra and Wadi Rum guides or Bedouin drivers: a few dinars per person for a good experience.
- Public restroom attendants: a few small coins.
The currency is the Jordanian dinar (JOD), and small notes are handy for tips.
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